How do you unplumb the toilet?

The International Compost Sanitation Forum and Message Board: Humanure Handbook - A Guide to Composting Human Manure: How do you unplumb the toilet?
Author: Rangdrol
Saturday, June 24, 2006 - 8:21 am
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Finally the new wax ring just sits on the slip ring: new wax ring

The price of the wax ring went up to a whopping US$3.50! But to help ease the pain the include a new set of bolts and a niffty new muti-lingual instruction set that was about worthless. .......

SO.....

You can do the whole job in about a half hour - it took just under 17 min this time - andin this case the slip ring was well below the floor surface because the new floor was put in over the old. Absent the new floor the slip ring would have been just below the floor levle by a few hairs so in this case to go to buckets I would have either cut a plug of flooring to cover the hole - having sealed the pipe and cleaned everything well - or stuffed insulation around it and put a tape bandaid across it and placed one of those suction cup bath mats over it. You of course could cover it with tiles, a square of flooring, picture of your favorite pol, carpet or a drip pan. You could find creativity suggesting many other things. The only really important things are to make sure it is well cleaned, the pipe plugged secure to keep methane out of the room and that no significant wieght pushed down on the pipe itself

Author: Rangdrol
Saturday, June 24, 2006 - 8:19 am
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Once the old wax ring is removed and the area is cleaned a bit you can see the slip ring and bolt: bolt slots This is a poor photo but you can almost see that the bolts slip in to slots in the slip ring and can be removed with ease.

Author: Rangdrol
Saturday, June 24, 2006 - 8:06 am
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Hmmm try this then : old seal

Author: Rangdrol
Saturday, June 24, 2006 - 8:02 am
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These pics arent gonna win awards but they will have to do.
This: \image {old seal and bolts} is the old seal and bolts once the throne is removed. The knife is pointing at the bolt. You can see it is about 2 inches long in total. Notice all the slime - wear gloves and scrub all this up with an old toothbrush or the like.
...

Author: John
Friday, June 23, 2006 - 11:40 am
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OK, let's start over.

Buy one of these https://tinyurl.com/hz7sb of the appropriate size.

Unscrew the wingnut, remove the bolt. The bolt is a carriage type, with a smooth, rounded end. Install the bolt in the reverse direction, with the rounded end now at the top of the plug and the threaded section at the bottom of the plug with the wingnut installed.

Tighten the plug enought so it's barely fits into the pipe's opening. Rub rubber perimeter of plug with petroleum jelly (optional) to make insertion easier and airtight.

If you'd like to remove the plug, just leverage a flat bladed screwdriver at the lip of the exposed plug. It'll come out fairly easy.

I've done this hundreds of times. Easy as pie.

Author: Anonymous
Thursday, June 22, 2006 - 4:26 pm
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yes, please, pictures would be great, I am learning a lot from this thread.

Author: Rangdrol
Thursday, June 22, 2006 - 8:39 am
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We are scheduled to replace a toilet tommorow. We will be doing a new seal and bolts but not a plug.
Would pictures help here? We can take some and post them.
We will check back before we leave in the AM.

Author: James K
Wednesday, June 21, 2006 - 11:23 am
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Because there isn't really anything to grab ahold of on the under side of the plug...

Author: John
Tuesday, June 20, 2006 - 11:47 am
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" OR...

just sink it down inside the pipe a ways, so that the hardware is flush with the top of the pipe, and then cover with a thin sheet of plywood, tile or something like that."

The expansion plug is lipped to sit on top of the open pipe, preventing you from pressing it into the pipe.


"If you put the thing in with petroleum jelly, you will have a devil of a time getting it back out if need be. "

Why?

Author: James K
Thursday, June 15, 2006 - 1:40 pm
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OR...

just sink it down inside the pipe a ways, so that the hardware is flush with the top of the pipe, and then cover with a thin sheet of plywood, tile or something like that.

If you put the thing in with petroleum jelly, you will have a devil of a time getting it back out if need be.

Cheers,

James

Author: John
Thursday, June 15, 2006 - 12:57 pm
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Paul,

Buy the rubber expansion plug, take it apart, flip the hardware to the opposite side so the smooth carriage bolt top will face upwards. Tighten together and rub petroleum jelly on the rubber perimeter and squeeze into the opening. You'll have a flush end cap.

Author: TCLynx
Wednesday, June 14, 2006 - 3:05 pm
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Perhaps you can build a small platform to put the sawdust toilet on if the hardware and such stick up in the way and you don't want to do any major work. I could allow space under for the old hardware and plug while giving a level surface for the sawdust toilet.

Author: Rangdrol
Tuesday, June 13, 2006 - 2:00 pm
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Sorry Paul, I did not realize we were going to be at opposite ends of the thread.
To seal your pipe you will want a rubber expansion plug. It is sort of like a big, black, doggie chew toy, like those squeeky hamburgers, except with a metal plate and bolt thru. As you tighten the bolt it forces the plug to expand laterally againt the pipe wall and seals the pipe against gas leaking up into your enviroment.

This is very important.

Methane will make you wish you only had Bird Flu.

They are about 10 bucks but you should wait until you have figured out if you will replace the toilet right away and also get the proper size. Old pipe came in several sizes.
If need be you can seal the pipe with multiple layers of plastic wrap. Use good stuff like Sarahn, not the cheap stuff. The good stuff is PVC and will not allow gas to seep thru. Multiple layers with electrical tape will do the job.

Author: Rangdrol
Tuesday, June 13, 2006 - 7:34 am
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You are in luck!
Your toilet almost certainly sits on a wax ring on a bolt plate attached to the pipe. That ring has a slipping collar that holds the bolts that secure the toilet and in your case it is probably just flush with or slightly below the floor without the bolts.
The cost of finding out is less than 3 bucks for a new wax ring.
The bolts in your case are probably removable. If not you wll have to put a new wax ring on and reseat the toilet.
We have replace 3 so far with water savers.
It takes about a half hour to take off the old ond put on the new but it is very easy and straight forward.

Good luck.

Author: Stephen
Monday, June 12, 2006 - 11:12 pm
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These messages are showing up in reverse order. Whats going on around here?

Author: Wayne
Monday, June 12, 2006 - 10:18 pm
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My toilet was attached to one of those white plastic flanges with two screws... I cut a piece of a plastic lid and screwed it down on the flange to cap the hole (after first cleaning off all the remnants of the wax seal). Then, I snapped another transparent plastic lid over the plastic cap with a paper towel in between that kind of matches the linolium. It's not perfect, and it's not flush with the floor, but has worked for me so far... The bucket sets to one side of the home-made cap and part of the cap sticks out from under the wooden toilet framework. The toilet supply line is also under the wooden toilet framework--it's completely hidden and not at all in the way of the bucket.

Author: carfreefamily
Monday, June 12, 2006 - 1:29 pm
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That's the plan, but I need to know how to seal the old pipe.

Author: admin
Monday, June 12, 2006 - 11:27 am
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Can you place your sawdust toilet over top of the old cast iron pipe somehow?

Author: Carfreefamily
Monday, June 12, 2006 - 11:23 am
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We've been using a sawdust toilet, (peat in our case), in our larger bathroom, but want to put one in our small bathroom as well. The problem is, we have to remove the conventional toilet to fit the sawdust toilet in.

I did some searching on the internet, and I know that you can seal the old pipe with a "dollar plug", but the bolt and wingnut on the dollar plug looks as if it would project above the floor.

Is there an easy way to cap the pipe so that it is flush with, or below the floor? We have old cast iron pipes, so I can't easily cut it, and if we ever sell, we would probably have to put the toilet back.

How have other people replaced their toilets? I don't want to pull out the old toilet before I have a plan.

Thanks,

Paul

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